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What items do you need to have success with your new rabbit project? What are your goals? What equipment do you need in your rabbitry?
Cages?
Type of feeders?
Water bottles or bowls?
Resting mats?
Nesting box?
What are the essentials and accessories that you should have when going to a rabbit show?
Carrying cages
Water bottles or water cups
Grooming table
What are your goals? Do you want to win with rabbits in tough competition? Learn from Bryan Shirk, 2x National Best of Breed breeder and ARBA Judge.
For many of us our rabbitry is in a shed or garage. Learn from Ryan Smith, rabbit breeder in Texas, as he shows how he raises rabbits in his air-conditioned shed.
Learn what makes a biosecurity plan and how to create one and implement it in your rabbitry.
How many holes do you need?
What size?
Rabbits should be put in individual cages.
Some rabbits prefer water bottles or a water system and some prefer water bowls.
Water bottles keep the water cleaner.
Some rabbits prefer water bowls. There are a number of options. Some breeders prefer plastic or ceramic. Some bowls lock into the floor.
Material made from:
Plastic
Ceramic
Aluminum
Feed bowls are similar to water bowls, usually the difference is a smaller size.
J-Feeders attached to the cage. The primary benefit is breeders do not have to open the cage door to feed them.
Some J-feeders require breeder to cut hole in cage, others are 2 piece and do not require cutting a hole.
Materials:
Plastic
Metal
An essential tool to keep the nails at proper length to protect the safety of the rabbit and the breeder.
Using a grooming table gets the rabbits at a height where you can handle them properly. This helps with grooming and posing them prior to going on the show table.
(Photo credit: Dawn E Densmore)
Carpets are a non-slip surface
Having a rabbit on a carpet while you have them out of their cage is a safe place for them and you.
Tattoo pens are a very popular way to tattoo your rabbit or touch up a clamp tattoo.
Want to find tattooing equipment and supplies?
Some breeders use clamp tattooes to identify their rabbits.
Storing feed in a sealed container keeps the feed fresher and keeps it away from insects and rodents.
Breeders that limit feed use some type of a standard size container. Measuring scoops work great for this. The breed size and age of your rabbit determines how much feed to give them each day.
A coop helps get feed from the main feed container to a bucket. Not accurate on amount of feed per rabbit
Door latch
Another style of door latch
J Clip Pliers Cage Builder DIY tool
Put J clips in the pliers to make the cage
C Clam Cage Builder DIY Tool
Put C Clamps in the tool to make the cage
Creep feeder to feed a different pellet to babies than the mother
Placed in the cage, this helps reduce the amount of urine that is sprayed out of the cages by bucks. If a buck sprays, the urine is caught and goes down beneath the cage.
These pads help a rabbit's feet rest by sitting on the pad.
These boxes are put into cages with the doe on day 28 after breeding. This is where the doe will kindle and where the nest of kits will grow.
These spools are not required and not recommended because rabbit pellets have all the nutrition rabbits need. Using salt and mineral spools can lead to more rust on your cages.
A hanger used to suspend a salt and mineral spool.
An easy way to identify your rabbits with this plastic holder and a notecard.
Use in the rabbitry and at shows. They are portable and make a great height for you to work with your rabbit.
Choose the proper size traveling hutch for your rabbit. The proper size is determined by the size of the rabbit. A traveling hutch secures the rabbit when moving.
Rabbits should be put in individual cages.
There are various sizes and options available for purchase. You should decide on one that fits your individual needs. If you only have one rabbit or you expect to only use the carrying cage for trips to the veterinarian, a single-hole carrying cage would probably be sufficient.
Make sure you select the proper size. There is a big difference between a single-hole hutch for a Netherland Dwarf and one for a French Lop. A traveling hutch intended for a French Lop (or any large breed) would allow too much space and increase potential injury for a Netherland Dwarf (or any small breed). On the other hand, a carrying cage designed for a Netherland Dwarf would not provide enough space for a Flemish Giant to feel comfortable. The carrying cage should be large enough for the rabbit to move around, but not allow too much movement. Just like humans, a rabbit needs to stay in place during car rides. Think of a carrying cage like a seat belt or child safety seat. It is not safe for children to be moving around in a moving vehicle.
If your rabbit uses a bottle at home, then keep using a bottle when you head to a show.
If your rabbit uses a bowl at home, keep using a bowl when heading to a show.
This plastic note card holder is one way to identify rabbits in their carriers.
A plastic dish used for rabbit feed.
Add these on the sides of carriers for easier carrying.
Get your rabbits at the perfect height to groom them and trim their nails before the show.
A latch to keep the top/sides of a carrying cage door closed.
In case you need to do a last minute touch up of a tattoo.
Use pine flakes/shavings in the bottom of a carrier. Do not use cedar shavings.
Rabbits need to be a non-slip surface when they are not in their cage.
A grooming brush to get out small amounts of loose fur or a mat.
These go in the bottom of carriers to catch urine and rabbit poop. When dirty, pick up the corners and throw it away. Puppy pads also make good absorbents on the tray.
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